ISSUE 111

COFFEE AND DOUGHNUTS

By Thomas Keller, The French Laundry
Yountville, California

SERVES 6
FOR THE CAPPUCCINO SEMIFREDDO

2 large eggs, separated
3 large egg yolks
¾ cup sugar
½ vanilla bean, split and scraped
2 tablespoons espresso extract
½ cup heavy cream

FOR THE CINNAMON-SUGAR DOUGHNUTS

¼ cup plus 1 tablespoon water,
room temperature
½ ounce compressed fresh yeast
½ cup all-purpose flour
2 tablespoons whole milk, room temperature
1 cup plus 2 tablespoons all-purpose flour,
or more as needed
3 tablespoons sugar
1 teaspoon Kosher salt
¼ cup egg yolks, about 3 large yolks
2 tablespoons unsalted butter,
melted and cooled

FOR THE CINNAMON-SUGAR

½ cup sugar mixed with 1 ¼ teaspoons
ground cinnamon

FOR THE DISH

Canola oil for deep-frying
½ cup whole milk for steaming
12 cinnamon sticks

FOR THE CAPPUCCINO SEMIFREDDO

Place the egg yolks and ¼ cup plus 2 tablespoons sugar in the bowl of a mixer fitted with the whisk attachment. Add vanilla bean. Whip for 12 minutes at medium speed, or until the mixture has lightened and tripled in volume. Beat in the espresso extract. Transfer to a bowl and place in an ice water bath. In the bowl of a mixer fitted with a wire whisk, whip the heavy cream with 3 tablespoons of the sugar until stiff peaks. Fold the whipped cream into the yolk mixture and return the bowl to the ice water bath. In the bowl of a mixer fitted with a wire whisk, whip egg whites until frothy. Add remaining 3 tablespoons sugar, continuing to whip, just until egg whites hold soft peaks. Fold the beaten egg whites into the egg yolk mixture until completely combined. Spoon the semifreddo into six 8- to 10-ounce coffee cups, leaving ½ inch at the top for the steamed milk. Gently tap cups to level the mixture. Cover with plastic wrap and transfer to freezer, at least 6 to 8 hours, or overnight.

FOR THE CINNAMON-SUGAR DOUGHNUTS

In the bowl of an electric mixer, add water and stir in ¼ ounce yeast, mixing to dissolve. Attach the dough hook, add the ½ cup flour, and mix slowly until the ingredients are thoroughly incorporated. Transfer sponge to a bowl, cover, and let proof at room temperature for 1 to 2 hours, until it has doubled. In a small bowl, crumble the remaining ¼ ounce yeast into the milk, stirring to dissolve. In the bowl of a mixer fitted with the dough hook, add ¾ cup of the flour, the sugar, and salt. Mix on low speed, adding the milk, yeast mixture, egg yolks, and butter, mixing to combine. Add the proofed sponge and the remaining ¼ cup plus 2 tablespoons flour. Continue to mix at low speed until combined. Increase the speed slightly, kneading dough for 4 to 5 minutes, or until it has formed a ball. Cover tightly with plastic wrap and let dough proof overnight in the refrigerator. Place the chilled dough on a lightly floured surface and roll out to a ½-inch thick rectangle. Cut into rounds using a 2-inch doughnut cutter. Place the doughnuts and doughnut holes on a baking sheet lined with parchment paper. Cover with a sheet of plastic wrap that has been lightly coated with cooking spray. Proof in a warm place for about 15 minutes.

TO SERVE

Heat oil to 325 degrees. Fry doughnuts and doughnut holes until deep golden brown. Transfer to a paper towel-lined sheet pan to drain. Toss in a bowl with cinnamonsugar. Remove the semifreddo from the freezer to soften slightly. Steam the milk using a cappuccino or frothing machine. Place a cup of semifreddo and a doughnut on a plate. Top each doughnut with a doughnut hole. Spoon the steamed milk over the semifreddo. Garnish with two cinnamon sticks.

 

Excerpted from The French Laundry by Thomas Keller (Artisan Books). Copyright © 1999

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