WINE TASTER INDEX
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|Van de Water||Mia||116|
We send three wine professionals and unmarked bottle, they taste, give us their impressions on a classic varietal from a classic appellation, and guess what the wine is. Keep in mind: a different conclusion can sometimes be the highest compliment a wine can hope to receive.
FROM ISSUE 111
JOSEPH LINDER, MS
Hotel Sommelier, Fairmont Olympic Hotel, Seattle WA
Joseph Linder, an Austrian native, has vast experience in fine dining. Arriving in New York he worked on the floor at Eric Ripert’s Le Bernardin. In Seattle he was wine director at Scott Carsberg’s Lampreia, then sommelier for Erik Liedholm at John Howie’s Seastar. As wine director at the beautiful Fairmount Olympic Hotel he received the Master Sommelier diploma in 2008. He passed on his fifth attempt. His wife Karla was relieved.
“I was excited when the package arrived this morning with the mystery wine. Little did I know how hard it was going to be.”
SIGHT: Pale to medium straw, but didn’t see any green. Suggesting warmer climate, or was it the grey Seattle sky? Hints of gas at the rim. Thick legs suggesting high alcohol or residual sugar.
SMELL: Very clean, moderately aromatic, and youthful. Distinctive but not overbearing flavor profile. Ripe peach, pear, grapefruit, and melon. Honey, pepper, or was it bitter almond? Smoke. Hint of minerality. No oak.
PALATE: Dry with some residual sugar that leads to more body. Medium-bodied with a soft texture. Alcohol is medium to high. Acidity is moderate to high but subdued by the residual sugar. There is some bitterness maybe due to skin contact. Some stony minerality. No oak. Long finish with mediumhigh complexity.
INITIAL CONCLUSION: Due to the weight of this wine and acidity, I am going to go with Old World from a moderate climate. Initially I got a lot of bitter almond with lower acidity, thinking it was a Pinot Gris, but when I re-tasted this wine at a colder temperature it was lighter and drier with a different profile. I even thought of Marsanne, but it was the gas that convinced me it was Gruner Veltliner.
FINAL CONCLUSION: Gruener Veltliner from the Wachau, Smaragd 2011